THE TUBOGA | Where does it come from
I'm sure you know it. Maybe not as Tubogas, but as Bulgari. You've probably seen one before.
When a client asked me to make her a customised version, in her colours and gemstones, this is the adventure I went on to make it happen.
When a client asked me to make her a customised version, in her colours and gemstones, this is the adventure I went on to make it happen.
Industrial Object > Jewellery
The Tubogas is one of my favourite examples of design born from translating the function of an everyday industrial object into jewellery, rather than simply copying its appearance.
During the 1940s, wartime restrictions made traditional jewellery materials increasingly difficult to obtain, innovation was needed. The inspiration came from corrugated industrial tubing. Its flexible, accordion-like structure became the starting point for a new jewellery technique.
The flexible coil naturally suggested the body of a snake, and the Serpenti Collection was born - one of Bulgari's greatest icons.
During the 1940s, wartime restrictions made traditional jewellery materials increasingly difficult to obtain, innovation was needed. The inspiration came from corrugated industrial tubing. Its flexible, accordion-like structure became the starting point for a new jewellery technique.
The flexible coil naturally suggested the body of a snake, and the Serpenti Collection was born - one of Bulgari's greatest icons.
I travelled to Italy to find the people who could make my client's necklace. It was not straightforward.
We chose steel, partly because of the cost of gold, but mainly because I loved the grey against the colours of the stones. Sourced beautiful tanzanite and rubellites and set them in generous gold.
It was measured specifically to fit my client's small neck. A one-of-a-kind piece, light and comfortable enough to wear every day. She wears it layered with other pieces we have made for her.
Honestly, I'd be hard pushed to make another. It was adventure enough to get even one produced.
We chose steel, partly because of the cost of gold, but mainly because I loved the grey against the colours of the stones. Sourced beautiful tanzanite and rubellites and set them in generous gold.
It was measured specifically to fit my client's small neck. A one-of-a-kind piece, light and comfortable enough to wear every day. She wears it layered with other pieces we have made for her.
Honestly, I'd be hard pushed to make another. It was adventure enough to get even one produced.
The other side of design is the part I find so interesting.
The design itself is only part of it. Finding the people who can make it, managing development, production and budget, finding the stones and figuring out the logistics is another.
I'm always learning and finding new ways forward (and blockers), and it's exciting. Each project is different and specific.
And then, finally, getting the finished piece into your client's hands… a good feeling.
The design is the idea. Everything around it is what makes the idea real.
The design itself is only part of it. Finding the people who can make it, managing development, production and budget, finding the stones and figuring out the logistics is another.
I'm always learning and finding new ways forward (and blockers), and it's exciting. Each project is different and specific.
And then, finally, getting the finished piece into your client's hands… a good feeling.
The design is the idea. Everything around it is what makes the idea real.
